The Chinees-Indisch cuisine offers a captivating glimpse into the complexities of Dutch culinary identity. Deeply rooted in the Netherlands’ colonial history, this cuisine has become an integral part of Dutch food culture. It’s remarkable how deeply intertwined this colonial past is with Dutch identity, often without our conscious awareness, revealing the intricate layers of Dutch society. This fascinating interplay forms the foundation of Benjamin Li’s artistic endeavor. 

Curated by my colleague Katy Hundertmark, the exhibition In Search of Perfect Orange invites visitors on a sensory exploration of Chinees-Indisch restaurants in the Netherlands. At the heart of this project lies an innovative art and photo book, ingeniously designed as a sticker album. This unique format not only captures the processes of cultural adaptation and identity formation but also serves as a powerful metaphor for the broader gaps in our collective understanding of Chinees-Indisch restaurants in the Netherlands. The album’s inherent incompleteness symbolises the gaps in our collective comprehension of this rich culinary and cultural tradition, prompting us to reflect on how we engage with diversity and cultural legacy in our society. 

Li’s approach transforms the audience from passive observers into active participants. Assembling the album becomes a multi-sensory experience akin to enjoying a meal: the visual and tactile sensation of the stickers, the sound of opening sticker packs, and the act of placing stickers in the book. The element of surprise in discovering which stickers you’ll find adds excitement to the process. In Li’s work, the simple act of placing stickers becomes a tangible way to engage with and process cultural heritage. The social aspect of exchanging duplicate stickers echoes the communal nature of sharing a meal. As visitors trade stickers, they forge new connections and share personal stories, creating a microcosm of community building and shared cultural discovery. 

In his extensive research, which involved visiting over 1,000 restaurants across the Netherlands, Li created a comprehensive cultural map that vividly illustrates the pervasive influence of Chinees-Indisch cuisine on Dutch society. This research underpins his artistic interpretations, which span photography, video installations, and sculptural elements. The exhibition space itself is cleverly designed to mimic a Chinees-Indisch restaurant, enveloping visitors in a sensory experience that evokes the ambiance of dining out. Through his project, Li unravels the intricate connections between food, migration, and identity.

He demonstrates how culinary traditions serve as both a source of nostalgia for migrants and a means of shaping identity and cultural expression. Li’s work also highlights the multifaceted role of migrant restaurants, which not only contribute to the economic survival of immigrant communities but also function as vital cultural and social hubs where diverse groups interact. 

Drawing on Philomena Essed’s concept of everyday racism, Li’s project sheds light on how racial discrimination can subtly permeate daily interactions, even within seemingly accepted culinary traditions. Li shares a personal anecdote to illustrate this point: “While I find Chinees-Indisch restaurants beautiful, they’re often the subject of ridicule or, at the very least, not taken seriously. A prime example is when singer and judge Gordon asked Chinese contestant Xiao Wang on Holland’s Got Talent if he was going to sing ‘Number 39 with Rice’.” 

Simultaneously, Li’s work captures the ephemeral nature of cultural heritage. His interactive sticker book poignantly reflects the nostalgia surrounding the gradual disappearance of Chinees-Indisch restaurants in the Netherlands, serving as a tribute to Li’s cultural roots, family history, and the broader narrative of migration. In Search of Perfect Orange transcends the boundaries of conventional art, inviting profound engagement with the multifaceted nature of cultural identity. It challenges us to look beyond stereotypes and appreciate the nuanced stories behind each dish, restaurant, and community that contributes to our shared cultural heritage. In an increasingly diverse society, Li’s project stands as a powerful reminder of art’s ability to foster understanding and connection while exploring the intricate layers of our culinary and cultural identity.

—Aya Musa

1. Wong Koen, Middenweg 267, 1098 AR, Amsterdam  

2. Pagode, Bilderdijkstraat 74, 1053 KW, Amsterdam 

3. China Town, Ijsbaanpad 1A, 1076 CV, Amsterdam 

4. Fook Sing, Molukkenstraat 155, 1095 BD, Amsterdam 

5. Tai Yuen, Purmerweg 57, 1023 AX, Amsterdam 

6. Happy Corner, Plantage Middenlaan 30, 1018 DG, Amsterdam